H.O.R.M. Modified Rules

At this point the Modified Class is a catch all class for any non-magnatraction cars which do not meet the specifications in the Stock Class Rules.  These cars will have to meet certain rules specifications which will be not as stringent as the rules in the Stock Class.  At some point in the future there may be a Super Stock Class for modifications to T-Jets and possibly another class for other cars with only dimensional restrictions along with basic body rules.  For now these rules will be for T-Jets, T-Jet clones (without magnatraction), and AFX (non-magnatraction).  If a Super Stock Class is formed these rules will be deemed out of date or modified to reflect a new class to go along with the Super Stock Class.  The Stock Class would remain the same.

BODIES
1. The car must have a body on it that represents a car of an actual car of some kind.
2. Bodies may be made out of hard plastic resin or vacuum formed lexan.
3. Bodies must be securely mounted to the chassis in some fashion.
4. Windshield and windows glass may be removed.
5. Fenders may be cut or flared as needed or desired.
6. Plastic may be removed from the body for weight reduction as long as the car remains appearing similar to the car it is modeled after.
7. Bodies must be readily available for purchase and not be one off moldings.
8. Body/car must pass freely through a 1 3/8" tech block.

CHASSIS
1. Chassis may be any 1/64 scale commercially available chassis using a pancake style motor.
2. Chassis shall not use magnets for traction.  This includes the chassis known as AFX Magnatraction.  These are chassis which have a magnet visable from the bottom of the car.  Auto World T-Jet clones or any other T-Jet clone must have the magnet removed from the bottom of the chassis if there is one present.
3. Bearings, bushings, spacers, and shims are permitted.
4. Add on weights are permitted, handling pans are not permitted.
5. Pick up shoe modifications are allowed as long as the connection to the chassis remains the same as the original chassis set up.
6. Chassis may be cut, sanded, or drilled.
7. Top plates may be changed or replaced by high performance parts as long as the parts are readily available to purchase.  Top plates may be modified.
8. Guide pins do not have to be the original guide pins but they must be of the original design for the given chassis.  Example, T-Jet chassis cannot be fitted with the snap in guide pins of the AFX chassis.  T-Jet guide pins with beveled holes for mounting are allowed as are flat head screws.
9. On T-Jets and T-Jet clones the guide pin may be glued to the chassis instead of using screws providing the body is securely mounted in some other fashion.
10. Gear plate clamp must be in place, but may be cut, dimpled, or altered in any fashion as long as it still performs the job of holding the top plate to the chassis.
11. Four gear chassis are allowed.  These are pancake style chassis which have 4 gears on the top plate instead of 3.

MAGNETS
1. Stock magnets are not required.
2. Magnets must be the stock shape and measurements of motor magnets in a pancake style motor and must be readily available.  No magnets are allowed that require changing the chassis for them to fit.
3. Magnets may be shimmed to fit in the chassis.  Magnets may be slightly sanded to fit properly.
4. Magnets may be matched.
5. No traction magnets are allowed.  A traction magnet shall be considered any magnet which is visible from the under side of the chassis.

ARMATURES
1. Armatures must be of a pancake motor style.
2. Armatures may be modified by rewinding, balancing, or truing.
3. Armatures must be readily available for purchase in their unmodified forms.
4. Armature spacers and shims are allowed.

cOMMUTATOR BRUSHES
1. Brushes must be readily available for purchase.
2. Brushes may be modified from their original form.

GEARS
1. All gears must be readily available for purchase.
2. There are no restrictions on gear sizes or gear ratios.
3. Gears may be soldered or glued to their respective shafts.
4. Gears may be lapped and polished.
5. Gears may be drilled, beveled, or lightened in any form.

TIRES/RIMS/AXLES
1. Tires shall e large enough in diameter so light is seen between the chassis and a piece of test track.
2. Any commercially available axles may be used as long as the car passes through a 1 3/8" tech block.
3. Tungsten axles are allowed.
4. O-Ring tires are allowed.
5. Double flange rims are allowed.
6. Front wheels may rotate independent of each other.
7. Front axle weights are allowed.
8. Front tire/axle may be allowed to float from side to side.  Lateral movement may not exceed 1/32".
9. No additives are permitted on tire surfaces other than for cleaning purposes.  Tires must be "Dry" when placed on the track.

H.O.R.M. Stock Class Rules

STOCK  updated 6-23-2019
The Stock Class is for Aurora Thunderjet 500 cars.  The purpose of this class is a starting point to bring HO racing to the area.  Any T-Jet clones will be put into a modified class as they usually have different gears, brushes, and while their armatures may have the same ohm ratings their armature lamenations and balancing are usually different.  These cars are usually faster than the stock T-Jets but do not handle as well.  This makes them prime candidates for the modified class to be discussed later.  Any body built of hard resin with mounting post for T-Jets will be allowed providing they follow the rules set forth in the body section of these rules.

The rules here-in will include specific rules theat must be followed concerning Bodies, Chassis, Armatures, Magnets, Tires and Hubs, and Gears.  If the car does not meet any of the listed rules it will have to run in a class we shall call "Modified" at this time.  Future classes may include varying degrees of modifications on T-Jets and magnet traction cars.

Bodies:
1. Body must completely cover the chassis when viewed from above except for legal openings (i.e. windows and vents) unless a specific class used by a track owner has body rules that allow different.
2. Bodies must be of the hard shell variety. (No vacuum formed bodies)
3. Bodies must be complete with windows, bumpers, drivers or roll bars as originally manufactured unless a specific class used by a track owner has body rules that allow different.  New resin bodies with molded in bumpers are allowed.
4. Bodies must be originally manufactured with two screw posts specifically for mounting to a Thunderjet chassis; Aurora, Model Motoring, MEV, Playing Mantis, etc. and easily identified as such.  No AFX, Tyco, LifeLike, G-Plus, etc.  Bodies must have original windshields if included.  No wide specially formed Fray type bodies allowed.
5. Bodies must be readily available for anyone to purchase.
6. Body must be fastened to chassis using two screws.
7. Fender wells may not be trimmed in any fashion unless a specific class used by a track owner has body rules that allow different.
8. Bodies may be lowered by trimming back the mounting post, but may not be lightened by removing material other than the height of the post.
9. The body may be trimmed slightly if the body restricts the movement of the pickup shoes. This trimming can only be for the purpose of making the pickup shoes movement operate properly.  Any excessive trimming will deem the body illegal.
10. Split screw post may be repaired using plastic, or a sleeve of some kind.
11. Screw post may be replaced with plastic replacements only and must be positioned in the original location.
12. Front and rear glass is required if it was on the original bady as it was manufactured.  Side windows and excess "glass" inside the roof area may be removed.
13. Fenders may not be flared, unless originally manufactured as such.
14. No body openings other than the side windows and front grills are allowed.
15. Body shape may not be altered from original molding unless a specific class used by a track owner has body rules that allow different.
16. Body msut pass freely through a 1 1/8" tech block.

Chassis:
1. Chassis must be original stock Aurora Thunderjet with all copper components.  A lighted Aurora Thunderjet chassis may be used only if all lighted components, including the wires, light, solder, and brass clip are removed.
2. Bearings, bushing, spacers, and shims are not permitted (exceot as noted in #5 in TIRES)
3. Weights and handling pans are not permitted.
4. Chassis cannot be cut, sanded or drilled in any way except for trimming the rails on the gear plate for body clearance (See rule #15)
5. Pickup shoes shall be stepped shoes only (e.g. Aurora, Model Motoring, American Line, BSRT (model 504 only), Slottech, Wizzard, Dash, etc).  "Ski" shoes or other pickup shoes without steps are not permitted.
6. Any readily available pick up shoe spring is acceptable.
7. Pickup shoes may be bent to allow better surface contact with the rails but must remain stepped.  The pickup shoe may only be slightly flattened.  The contact point of the shoe may not be lengthened.
8. Pickup shoe travel may be restricted either by bending the rear hook where it connects to the chassis, folding the front hook where it meets the front chassis tab, or by installing a non-metallic restrictor ring at the top/front of the shoe.
9. Pickup shoes cannot be weighted.
10. Shunt wires or other soldering is not permitted.
11. Guide pins must be original design, any color plastic.  No rear or swivel guide pins are permitted.
12. Guide pins may be glued to chassis but two mounting screws must be used.  (See rule #6 under BODIES).
13. guide pin may not be countersunk to allow lowering of the front screw.
14. Gear plate clamp may be bent or dimpled but may not be cut.
15. Gear plate rails may be trimmed to allow for lowering of the body.
16. Lowering of the body is only allowed by trimming the body mounting post.

MAGNETS:
1. Magnets must be stock Thunderjet as originally manufactured.  Original color combinations were green/orange, green/white, green/red, white/red, and black.
2. Magnets may be shimmed using mon-metallic and mon-magnetic material only.  Magnets may only be shimmed on their back side, not the side facing the armature.  Chassis cannot be cut to allow re-positioning of the magnets.
3. Magnets may not be sanded or cut.
4. Magnets may be matched.
5. No traction magnets are allowed.

ARMATURES
1. Armatures must be stock Thunderjet.  T-jet armatures are typically painted gray and have green, red, or gold windings, or a combination of these colors.
2. Armatures must measure 16 ohms or higher when measured from pole to pole.
3. Armatures may not be balanced.
4. Armatures may not be rewound or de-wound and soldered tabs may not be altered.
5. Armature spacers are not permitted.
6. Armatures may not be shimmed.
7. Armature lamenations may not be trued, shaved or cut.
8. Commutator plates may be polished but may not be shaved, trued or altered.

COMMUTATOR BRUSHES
1. Commutator brushes must be copper/carbon compound.
2. Brushes must be flat surfaced top and bottom.  Brushes may be lightly scored on the bottom to prevent spinning.
3. Any readily available aftermarket brush is acceptable.

GEARS
1. Armature pinion, idler, and driven gear must be stock brass gears.
2. Armature pinion gear must be 13tooth.
3. Idler gear and driven gear must be 24 tooth.
4. Final pinion gear must be original 9 thooth.
5. Crown gear must be 15 tooth nylon gear.
6. Gears may be soldered or glued to their respective shafts.
7. Gears may be tapped and polished.
8. Gears may not be drilled or lightened in any form.
9. Gears may not be beveled.
10. Smaller diameter or "specialty chassis" crown gears will not be permitted.
11. Identical replacement gears are permitted and must be made of the same material as the stock parts.  No CNC machined aftermarket gears will be allowed.  Unless a track allows this under their rules.

TIRES/RIMS/AXLES
1. Any tire is allowed, provided it is a readily available part and is manufactured to fit the stock rims.  Tires may not exceed standard replacemant width for acceptable after market narrow tires.  No O-Ring front tires are allowed.
2. All tires shall be equal to or greater than 0.350" diameter.
3. Wheels must be stock original wheels or aftermarket equivilant.
4. Double flange "skinny tire" rims are allowed.
5. Rims must be constructed of plastic only.  Metal rims are not permitted.
6. Only stock 7/8" axles are allowed.  No tungstem axles permitted.
7. Front tire/axle may be allowed to float from side to side.  Lateral movement may not exceed 1/32".  Non-metallic spacers may be used to extend width to a maximum of 1 1/8" with tires.
8. Rear and front hubs with tires must pass freely through a 1 1/8" tech block.
9. All four wheels must touch the track.
10. No additives are permited on the tire surfaces.

QUESTIONABLE MODIFICATIONS
1. If you don't know if it is legal, it probably isn't.
2 Don't cheat and you won't be embarrassed by being caught.

Rebuilding a T-Jet

 

Bobby and I recently made a trip to Huntsville, AL to learn more about building T-Jets.  The people with North Alabama Slotcar Association (N.A.S.A.) are way ahead of where we are in knowing how to do this.  The person we learned from has competed in some of the largest HO races in the nation.  While we were there they were in discussions about a race in Ferndale, CA they will be going to in March of next year.  The "Fray" is probably more prestigious than the H.O.P.R.A. National Championships.  These guys are serious racers and serious car builders.  We were extremely fortunate to have Kevin Riggs spend about 8 hours instructing us on how to do it right.

Rebuilding a car the way they do may take 6-8 hours or more, not the 30 minutes you may think it takes. You have to use specific tools to do the things we did under the guidance of an expert.  I tried to compile a list of tools we used and price them out.  My head was spinning by the time I finished.  To my count we used more than $1,500 worth of tools to rebuild these cars.  Mind you, that amount does not have to be spent on tools.  As I said these people are in a different league than us.  They build cars which can be competitive in any race in the nation.  They also have the know how and experience to use these tools properly.  Bobby and I were just stumbling along trying to follow instructions, our cars did not come out nearly as fast as what they can build.  But we did learn what it takes to do the job if you have the tools and the experience to do it right.  I repeat, you do not have to buy all these tools to enjoy HO racing and working on your cars, but it does take it to another level of enjoyment.  Who can argue that you can luck upon a car that is fast right our of the box.  Just look at Bobby's stock T-Jet, it is blistering fast and he did none of the stuff we learned to it.

The tools we used... Lets start this way, we didn't even know what most of them were when we started.  . Then Kevin pulled out an extensive quantity of parts, and a few donor cars to be used in the build of one car. TOOLS - A quality gear puller plus attachments to protect the chassis plate when you use it, A quality piece to peen the gears for when you put them back on the shafts and all the anchors they use for the different size gears A quality gear press, the lucky Bob's we have been using is not good enough. Various grits of sandpaper to sand every gear surface smooth and polished. You need a gauge to measure the flatness of an armature (this is not balancing). You need a tool to repair loose shaft holes such as armature, and pinion shafts, plus your axle holes. You need a Dyno or a replacement for one and an amp meter to measure your amp draw. You need good set up blocks which are perfectly flat and have something representing the rails measured to the rail height you are using. A gauge that measures tension when you rotate a gear. A gauss meter. Appropriately shaped pliers with flat jaws to adjust pick up shoes. Exacto knives and dental floss to repair brush springs. Proper oil including Dielectric oil for the arm hole by the brushes. A quality surface to check the flatness of chassis. A high quality set up to check for arms being out of balance. A device to clean and polish comms that goes way beyond what we have been doing. And a plate to set your chassis up with that is exactly true so your chassis is not crooked in aspect to the alignment of your axles. Now.....you have to know how to use each of these tools and when to use them.

I will try to explain the steps we went through. First you disassemble several cars to get a stock pile of part to build one car with. Every part has to be taken apart. Gears off shafts and everything removed except the copper plates on the bottom of the car. Find the chassis which seems to be the flattest with the best brush springs. Discard the rest of the chassis. Clean the chassis thoroughly. A little grit left where the magnets go could disrupt the handling of the car. Clean the copper completely. Straighten the chassis the best you can to get it exactly flat. This can be done by using a boiling plate and boiling the chassis for it to reset or by flexing the chassis until it comes back to its original shape. This takes a while and is very detail oriented. Once you have the chassis sitting flat check with an alignment tool to see if the axles may not be touching at all four corners. Once this is done you can start trying to adjust the brush springs. We learned the brushes have to sit up higher than we thought before.

Next select a top plate that fits the chassis the best. You want it tight but not binding. If the plate fits check it for flatness. Twist and bend the plate until it starts moving back to its original shape. Once it is flat according to a quality flat surface check again for fit. If it binds find another plate and start working again until you get one flat and fitting properly. Discard the rest of the top plates. The symmetry of the poles of the arm is what you are looking for. This is more important than having a low ohm rating. Once you have selected your best arm check using a run out gauge to see if the plates of the arm are all the same height. If not, loosen the clamps holding you lamanations together and squeeze together to get the right height then tighten it back down (this is not balancing an arm). You now have the arm you will be using, discard the rest.

Thoroughly clean your magnets. See if they fit in the chassis without binding. If they do, check for dirt in the chassis or get another pair. Find all the pairs of magnets you can that fit into the chassis properly. Check these magnets with a gauss meter to find the best matched magnets. Discard the rest of your magnets.

Inspect all your gears, look for spurs, bent or worn teeth, look for abrupt edges where the gears were stamped. Discard the bent or worn gears. Clean the remaining gears completely. Sand the gears smooth. Use a wire brush in the teeth of the gears to make sure they are clean. Polish the gears.

Check all the shafts gears will be on for pitting or dirty surfaces. Clean them and remove any tarnishing. Check axles for straightness. Discard any bad shafts or axles including the arm if necessary.

Look at your chassis and evaluate the hole that shafts and axles pass through. If any are loose you must tighten the holes up. Use a tool to pinch the hole in from both sides of the plastic and test the shaft for play. Remove as much play as you can without creating resistance.

Now you are ready to begin assembly. Install your pick up shoes and springs. Oil the hole in the bottom of the chassis for the arm to fit in and the hole in the top plate. Install you brushes. Drop your arm into the chassis. Install your top plate and clamp. Test the motor on a Dyno using an amp meter. Make not of the amp draw and how fast the arm is turning. Take the top plate off and find the idler gear that fits the shaft with the least amount of play while not binding. Discard the rest of your idler gears.

Now you are ready to start installing gears. Find your best armature gear. Use the peening tool on both sides of the gear (you don't want to spin a gear after everything is together). Using a GOOD gear press install the armature gear so it has as little gap between the shoulder of the shaft and the plate as possible without causing restriction. Put the plate back on the chassis with the arm attached and clamp it down. Test the speed and the amp draw of the motor again. If the amps have gone up a little it is ok. If the amp draw goes up considerably remove the gear and start over.

Once you are happy with your amp draw and the arm gear remove the top clamp, oil and install your idler gear. Use your tension gauge at this point to see how much tension it takes to move the idler gear. Change out the idler gear to each good one you have and test. Pick out the best one you have and discard the rest.

Disassemble your chassis again and find the shaft you have that best fits for your pinion gear. Discard the rest. Peen your pinion top and bottom (you do not want to spin a pinion gear in a race). Find your best driven gear (the one above the pinion) and peen it top and bottom. Using a high quality press put the driven gear onto the shaft until the shaft crowns slightly in the hole. Drop the shaft into the top plate and assemble the entire chassis again. Check for speed and amp draw again. If it goes up significantly find another gear and start over. Once you are comfortable with the gear you have chosen discard the rest of the driven gears.

Disassemble your chassis again and install your peeened pinion gear leaving as little gap between the gear and the plate as possible. Reassemble and test for speed and ampls again. If there is a big jump remove the pinion and start over.

Once you are comfortable with your pinion gear. Find you best rear axle and your best crown gear. Install your axle and crown gear. check once again for speed and amp draw. If there is a large amp draw go to another gear or axle until you are happy.

Once you have done all this you are ready to install your tires and check your shoes for contact. We spent an hour on this process. The shoe should have the most contact possible with the rail. Bend it until it works right.  I came away with the opinion all of the above helps, but what is more important than anything is how the pick up shoe meets the track.  You need as much contact as possible.

Big Day of Racing for HORM 8/2/2019

The HO Racers of Mississippi held a Racing Extravaganza on Labor Day.  The raced two full race programs at two different tracks in one day.  The six classes had a combined total of 47 entries making it much larger than the new racing organization had hoped for.  The races took place at The "Dirt" in Crystal Springs, MS and Clintonapolis Slot Car Speedway in Clinton, MS.  At The "Dirt" Stock, Dirt Stock, and Magnet classes were raced.  At Clintonapolis Slot Car Speedway Indy IROC, Stock, and Modified classes were run.  In the HORM sanctioned classes; Stock, Modified, and Magnet points are given for position which will go towards a class champion at the end of the year.  This day being a special event the points were doubled.

The big news of the day was Chuck Hendricks breaking into the win column in a big way.  He won one race at The "Dirt" and he swept the races at Clintonapolis.  The other big news was Tim Hendricks finally was beaten in the Modified class.  In fact he finished dead last.  However, he did keep his win streak alive in the Magnet class as no one had an answer to his winning ways.

The day was long and everyone was tired by the end of the day, but all enjoyed the day of racing.  Future events will not be this long but there are special races in the works for upcoming events.

At The "Dirt" Stock, Dirt Stock, and Magnet classes were run.
Stock class winner was Bobby Shivers followed by Terry Jensen, Chuck Hendricks, Tim Hendricks, Jon Hendricks, Randy Autwarter, Keith Autwarter, and Pat Hendricks.
Dirt Stock winner was Chuck Hendricks, followed by Bobby, Tim, Terry, Jon, Pat, Randy, and Keith.
Magnet class winner was Tim Hendricks followed by Chuck, Jon, Pat, Randy, Keith, and Terry.

At Clintonapolis Slot Car Speedway we ran Indy IROC, Stock, and Modified classes.
Indy IROC winner was Chuck Hendricks followed by Terry, Randy, Bobby, Jon, Pat, Tim, and Keith. In this race 2nd through 7th place was only seperated by 2 laps.
Stock Class was won by Chuck Hendricks, followed by Tim, Bobby, Terry, Randy, Jon, Pat, and Keith.
Modified class was also won by Chuck Hendricks followed by Bobby, Jon, Terry, Keith, Randy, Pat, and Tim.

The next scheduled races for HORM are Monday Sept. 16th at Clintonapolis Slot Car Speedway in Clinton and Sunday Sept. 29th at The "Dirt" in Crystal Springs.

HORM Race Recap 6/30/2019

So far the HO Racers of Mississippi have held 3 points paying races.  This post is to catch up on those results and the current points leaders.

The first event was held at Clintonapolis Slot Car Speedway in Clinton, MS on June 30, 2019.  The classes raced were IROC Indy Cars, Stock (T-Jets), Modified (T-Jets and T-Jet clones), and Magnet.
The races on the four lane track were 3 minute rotations for the first two classes and 2 minute rotations on the last two classes.  We had 6 racers present with only 4 racing in two of the classes and 5 racing in one class.  The Stock Class did have 6 racers in it.  It may not have been a lot of racers but it was enough to race and HORM is off and running
IROC Indy Class, This was a very competitive race with Tim beating his son Jon by half a lap.  The it was remembered that Jon went through the lap counter on the wrong lane once and needed to have a lap added giving him the victory.
1st Jon Hendricks - 5pts
2ns Tim Hendricks - 4 pts
3rd Chuck Hendricks - 3 pts
4th Bobby Shivers - 2pts
5th Terry Jensen - 1pt
Stock Class, Terry Jensen ran away with this race.
1st Terry Jensen - 6pts
2nd Chuck Hendricks - 5pts
3rd Jon Hendricks - 4pts
4th Bobby Shivers - 3pts
5th Juan Hernandez - 2pts
6th Tim Hendricks - 1pt
Modified Class, A lot of what ifs were said about this race, but Tim outran everyone.
1st Tim Hendricks - 4pts
2nd Terry Jensen - 3pts
3rd Jon Hendricks - 2pts
4th Chuck Hendricks - 1pt
Magnet Class, The fastest car won this race.
1st Terry Jensen - 4pts
2nd Tim Hendricks - 3pts
3rd Jon Hendricks - 2pts
4th Chuck Hendricks - 1pt
It was a great first race for HORM

The second HORM event was held at The "Dirt" in Crystal Springs, MS on July 29, 2019.  The classes at this race were Stock, Modified, Magnet, and the first running of "Dirt" Stock.  "Dirt" Stock is the same as Stock but the bodies are allowed to be cut up and larger tires are allowed.  There were 7 racers present for this race with only 6 racing in Modified and Magnet.
"Dirt" Stock Class, this race was won by Bobby Shivers who was sporting a mustang that looked like it had just rolled out of the garage complete with bondo patches on the fenders.
1st Bobby Shivers - 7pts
2nd Terry Jensen - 6pts
3rd Tim Hendricks - 5pts
4th Chuck Hendricks - 4pts
5th Juan Hernandez - 3pts
6th Jon Hendricks - 2pts
7th Vincent Hernandez - 1pt
Stock Class, Terry Jensen still had no competition in this class.
1st Terry Jensen - 7pts
2nd Chuck Hendricks - 6pts
3rd Tim Hendricks - 5pts
4th Bobby Shivers - 4pts
5th Juan Hernandez - 3pts
6th Vincent Hernandez - 2pts
7th Jon Hendricks - 1pt
Modified Class, Tim dominated in this class again.
1st Tim Hendricks - 6pts
2nd Chuck Hendricks - 5pts
3rd Terry Jensen - 4pts
4th Jon Hendricks -3pts
5th Juan Hernandez - 2pts
6th Vincent Hernandez - 1pt
Magnet Class, this class was won by the slowest car but it was the most drive-able of the bunch.
1st Tim Hendricks - 6pts
2nd Jon Hendricks - 5pts
3rd Terry Jensen - 4pts
4th Vincent Hernandez - 3pts
5th Juan Hernandez - 2pts
5th Chuck Hendricks - 1pt
It was good to add Vincent Hernandez to our list of racers.

The third HORM event was back at Clintonapolis Slot Car Speedway in Clinton, MS on August 12, 2019.  It was decided to only run 3 classes to make the length of time more appropriate for a Monday Night.  It proved to be a good decision as no one was nearly as tired at the end of the night as they had been with 4 classes.  We also welcomed Randy and Keith Autwarter and another  Pat Hendricks into the racing.  Just what we need...more Hendricks, right?  This gave us 8 racers, the most we have had yet and two racers were not present due to family obligations. We would like to especially thank the Autwarter bros. for coming and racing with borrowed equipment in every class.  You are always welcome to use our cars.
IROC Indy Class
1st Terry Jensen - 8pts
2nd Chuck Hendricks - 7pts
3rd Bobby Shivers - 6pts
4th Jon Hendricks - 5pts
5th Tim Hendricks - 4pts
6th Randy Autwarter - 3pts
7th Pat Hendricks - 2pts
8th Keith Autwarter - 1pt
Stock Class, people have bought new cars and Terry's car was no longer the fear of the track.
1st Chuck Hendricks - 8pts
2nd Bobby Shivers - 7pts
3rd Tim Hendricks - 6pts
4th Terry Jensen - 5pts
5th Jon Hendricks - 4pts
6th Pat Hendricks - 3pts
7th Randy Autwarter - 2pts
8th Keith Autwarter - 1pt
Magnet Class, once again Tim showed you don't have the fastest car to win and we found out the new guys are going to be threats.
1st Tim Hendricks - 7pts
2nd Terry Jensen - 6pts
3rd Pat Hendricks - 5pts
4th Randy Autwarter - 4pts
5th Chuck Hendricks - 3pts
6th Jon Hendricks - 2pts
7th Keith Autwarter - 1pt
This was the most racers we have had yet.

The next big race will be a Labor Day Extravaganza.  It will be a double header with races starting at 10:00 at The "Dirt".  Stock, "Dirt" Stock, and Magnet classes will be run.  Then at 3:00 racing will continue at Clintonapolis Slot Car Speedway with Indy IROC, Stock, and Modified classes running.  These races will also pay double HORM points!